Ladies, This Is the Garden Hose You’ve Been Waiting For

Still the Best Garden Hose I've Ever Used - Here's Why

Back in 2020, I first reviewed one of those retractable, expandable lightweight garden hoses—and let me tell you, it was love at first spray. 

Fast-forward to today, and it's still the only type of hose I'll use. Once you experience the freedom of not dragging a heavy, stiff, tangled mess around the yard, there's no going back.

This year, I picked up another one for the backyard, and the moment I hooked it up, I was reminded why I fell for it in the first place. 

If the marketing teams behind these things aren't focusing on women, especially women who enjoy yard work, they're seriously missing a golden opportunity.

Here's why this hose continues to be a garden essential for me:

1. It's featherlight

Dragging around a traditional hose used to be a full-on workout. This one? I can carry it with one hand while sipping my coffee with the other. It's that light—and yes, that matters.

2. It stores like a dream

When you're done, it shrinks right up and hangs easily over the hose holder. There is no fighting with coils, no awkward loops falling off, and no grumbling required.

3. It saves space

Our 50-foot hose for the backyard takes up a third of the space the old one did. It practically disappears when it's not in use, which is great if you're tired of looking at a messy hose heap.

4. It looks tidy

I never thought I'd describe a hose as "not ugly," but here we are. It's sleek and minimal and doesn't distract from the garden or patio like those bulky green beasts we used to have.

5. No need for bulky wind-up holders

We've got one of those old-school hose boxes in the garage for the front yard, but we didn't want that eyesore cluttering up the backyard. With this hose, you just drape it over a hook or holder and call it a day.

6. Mornings are more leisurely now

One of my favorite parts of the day is watering the plants first thing in the morning. With the old hose, it felt like a chore before I even had my coffee. Now? I pop outside, grab the lightweight hose, water everything in minutes, and actually enjoy the moment.

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There are plenty of lightweight expandable hoses out there, and they come in a range of lengths to suit your yard or patio size. 

⭐If you’re looking for something simple and compact, here’s a popular 25ft lightweight hose you can check out⭐

It's a great option for smaller spaces or quick watering jobs—and trust me, once you try one of these types of hoses, you won't want to go back.

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Reviewing Overseeding A Lawn With Grass Seed.

  

Our lawn gets heavy traffic as we are often walking on it, putting garden furniture on it and our late dog and other friends dogs play on it. We nurture our plants, vegetables and flowers and we also need to look after our lawns so that they are also healthy. So every few years we feel the need to revitalise it and overseed.

We usually have good success with Canada Green grass seeds which is a tough mix, but there are many other grass seeds available. It is important we choose the grass seed that best meets our lawn needs, whether in sun or shade and how the lawn will be used for example light or heavy use. As we are on heavy clay soil, part of our garden is mostly in shade and the other part mostly in sun and our lawn is much used most of the year, we want a tough grass mix that can stand up to our activities. 

I have never sown a new lawn from scratch but we do overseeding of our existing lawn and sow over smaller bare patches as well as needed. If the lawn looks like this photo below, with bare patches we could do with considering reseeding or overseeding.

Sowing grass seed onto an existing lawn can help improve its density, health and overall look. We like a grass seed that is tough, fast growing and one that looks nice and green once grown.

Here's how to do it in steps so that it is most effective. You will need to check the instructions on your grass seed packet as each grass type may be a little different. This article covers the general steps we take when overseeding our lawn. 

As usual preparation is key. The best times of year to over sow a lawn are in Spring and in Autumn/Fall. You will need to stay off the lawn for a few weeks after sowing seed so timing is important. 

What You Will Need

• Grass seed appropriate to your lawns needs and use
• A Lawnmower
• A rake to rake the compost
• A fork or spikes to aerate the soil 
• Multipurpose compost 
• A garden sieve - to sieve the compost into a fine tilth
• Watering can or hosepipe, both with a fine gentle spray attachment. 

Steps to Overseed Your Lawn

Step One Mowing The Lawn

Mow your lawn but perhaps a little shorter that you usually do to about one to one and a half inches tall. This is done to make sure the seeds have better access and contact with the soil.

Step Two Raking The Lawn

It is important to rake the lawn removing all debris, bits of twigs, leaves and so forth. Take this opportunity to rake out any thatch as well. This is perhaps the most energetic step!

Step Three Aeration Of The Soil

This is the process of making small holes in the soil. It is helpful to do this every year for drainage regardless, but also for the purposes of seed sowing it helps the seeds get into the soil more easily. How you wish to do this really depends on your size of your lawn, the time you have available, how active you are and if you enjoy it. 

We have a small lawn so we just take it in turns to go over the whole lawn with a garden fork making holes at short intervals probably a foots length. It take us a couple of hours but is not too taxing. If your lawn is bigger you might want to hire a lawn aerator or hire someone to do it with machinery. 

Step Four Spreading The Grass Seed.

It is important to spread the seed as evenly as we can over the lawn. As we have a small lawn we just broadcast the seed, this means taking a small handful and casting the seed out over an area, then repeating. Again if your lawn is larger or you wish to ensure it is perfectly spread a broadcast spreader will do the job well. Check the seed packet you use for how much you need to use.

Step Five Topdressing 

I think this is worth doing for most lawns, which is to spread a thin layer of compost or topsoil over the seeds. This protects them from being blown away in the wind and from having too many eaten by birds. We usually use a garden sieve to gently sieve the compost over the seeds so we get a light even coverage. 

Step Six Watering The Lawn

It is important to water the lawn straightaway after seeding and top dressing. This is to moisten the soil and again to stop seeds flying everywhere in the wind.

It is important to keep the seeds at least damp for up to two weeks after sowing, until they germinate. I usually try to time garden grass reseeding for a day when rain is forecast for several days after. This saves me a big watering job and I like to think that rainwater is likely better at this stage. 

If watering myself it means I need to tread on the new seeded lawn so it is best to put planks down to step on so as not to damage any new delicate roots. Also you need to water lightly and evenly with a good rose gentle spray. Avoid a harsh jet of water as this will only serve to clump seeds together, waterlog the ground and may drown them. 

After about 2 weeks you can reduce the watering to two or three times a week, unless it rains for a few hours two to three days in a week. 

We generally do step four spreading the seed and step five topdressing and step six watering one after the other in rows then step backwards and repeat the three steps for the next row. We find this prevents us trampling all over the fresh seed on the lawn.

Step Seven Ongoing Grass Care

We need to keep off the grass as much as possible for about two to three weeks. This can be a little frustrating but it is important to give the seed a good chance at rooting.  Once the grass has germinated and grown to about three inches, we can reduce the frequency of watering. We just water every other day or every few days depending on the weather, but we make sure it is now a good drink at this stage, rather than a light spray. 

It is important not to think of mowing the new seeded lawn until the grass has grown to at least three inches. Depending on the lawn it can be good to buy a lawn fertiliser and use that according to instructions to keep the lawn in good condition through the year. 

Protect the seed from being eaten. While I love birds it is important to try at least to keep them off the seed, you can put up scarecrow like features of poles with pots on top but in our garden no matter what I do there are always mice and birds and especially wood pigeons who come down to eat some of my seeds! I am relaxed about it though and always think of the old adage.

"Four seeds in a row:

One for the mouse,

One for the crow,

One to rot,

And one to grow."

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So reseeding or overseeding a lawn is quite a big undertaking. However it is not something most of us will need to do all that often. Once a year is generally advised but we often let it go to once every two or even three years. In between we simply address any bare patches that arise. Our lawn is however not an immaculate showpiece but somewhere we use and live on when outside. 

If you want or need a really beautiful immaculate lawn then once a year overseeding is advisable.  However often you reseed, the results are so worth it when you sit out on your lovely green, thick lawn in late Spring and summer and can enjoy it. 

A beautiful, healthy green lawn sets off all the flowers and plants beautifully and is a thing of joy!  

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Reviewing Overseeding A Lawn With Grass Seed by Raintree Annie.

Note: The author may receive a commission from purchases made using links found in this article. “As an Amazon Associate, Ebay (EPN), Esty (Awin), and/or Zazzle Affiliate, I (we) earn from qualifying purchases.”

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Reviewing The Benefits of Garden Mulch

 

Mulch is much under rated, but mulching the soil is one of the best tasks you can do for your garden. The beauty of our plants and flowers, the quality of our fruits and vegetables all starts with the quality of our soil. It is easy to buy all the lovely flowering plants and bulbs only to find that they cannot thrive in our soil. Many gardeners or potential gardeners then become disappointed. 

However, If we take care of the soil and keep it healthy and weed free, the rest comes naturally. Mulch offers a wide range of benefits to the garden in terms of the look and beauty of our gardens and if organic mulch, in practical benefits for the soil and the health and beauty of our plants. For both experienced gardeners and complete novices garden mulch can enhance and transform your garden. 

You Might Be Asking What is Mulch?

Mulch is simply a layer of material thickly applied to the surface of the soil usually applied to beds and borders in our gardens.

It can be organic, such as wood chips, bark, straw and mulch compost. Organic is best if you need to improve the quality of your soil. 

Mulch can also be inorganic, like gravel,  sheeting, and rubber. Inorganic mulch can serve a practical purpose of weed suppression like sheeting but not be very pleasing to look at, or it can be very pretty especially if you use pebbles or glass beads.

Each type of mulch serves different purposes and can be chosen based on the specific needs of your garden.

What Are The Benefits of Mulch?

Mulching For A  Beautiful Garden

I am always pleasantly surprised what a difference a little time spent mulching achieves to the look of the garden. The difference can be quite dramatic! Mulch always seems to make plants look so much better and the whole garden put together beautifully. We can also use different types of mulch to create specific areas of the garden whether you want a natural look or more formal approach for different areas. 

Reducing Weeding!

This is my number one reason for spending time mulching in Spring. Although it takes time to mulch it saves so much more time in weeding. A thick layer of mulch which blocks out sunlight can inhibit much of the weed seeding and growth.  This thankfully reduces the need for hand weeding. As I never use any chemical weed killer and am not a huge fan of endless hand weeding on my knees, it is essential for my garden. It is not a guarantee of no weeds, but as long as you use a thick enough layer of mulch, which is about two to four inches deep, it can cut down weeding quite a lot.   

Moisture And Temperature Regulation

Mulch helps keep moisture in the soil by reducing evaporation. This is particularly beneficial for the summer during hot, dry periods. If using mulch for this purpose a Spring mulching is most beneficial.  Mulch also acts like a blanket to keep the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Our garden soil is heavy clay and it dries out and cracks in the summer and in winter becomes a hard, cold, wet block so these insulating properties are very important to our garden.

Mulching For A Healthy Soil

In gardening soil health and structure is where it all begins. Organic mulches always decompose or rot down over time. This adds important nutrients and  improves the structure and overall fertility of the soil. An improved and healthy soil promotes plants to have a healthy root development which is key to a healthy plant and good flowers, vegetables and fruit.

 Our heavy clay soil has nutrients but it is difficult for young plants roots to access via the heaviness of the clay. So it is very important to open up the structure of our soil so that plants can root more effectively. However if you have very light soil, sandy, stony or chalky soil, mulching can help to improve and add much needed nutrients and hold and firm up the structure of the soil. 

So mulching with organic matter ultimately helps all types of soil. It is a hugely positive task to do and reaps benefits no matter what your soil type. 

 

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Types of Garden Mulch.

There are two main types of Mulch, organic and inorganic. 

Organic Mulch

This includes materials like bark, well rotted manure, grass clippings, straw, cocoa mulch, wood chips, compost or prepared Mulch compost bags. These mulches rot down with time and enrich the soil with organic matter. Personally I prefer a mulch compost or bark. I have found straw attracts rodents which we do not want and grass clippings can look untidy and a bit messy in the main beds and borders. If you have a stables nearby they may give you or sell you their horse manure, however it will need to have time for it to rot down before you can apply it to the garden soil so you need an area to store it. A prepared mulch in bags is perhaps the easiest way to mulch. 

A word of warning if you have dogs, do not use cocoa mulch as it is toxic to dogs and very attractive to them.

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Inorganic Mulch

This includes materials like gravel, rubber mulch, glass beads, decorative pebbles, river rocks, weed suppressant membranes and plastic sheeting, even old carpet. These mulches do not decompose and will not add any nutrients to the soil. They are often used to suppress and control difficult perennial weeds but some such as gravel, pebbles and river rocks can also be used beautifully for decorative purposes. 

We have used gravel and pebbles in certain areas. River rocks and large decorative pebbles look really beautiful in the right setting and can enhance the plants around them. 

We don't use plastic sheeting generally across the garden as unless it is covered with another layer of organic mulch or pebbles it looks awful. Plus plastics can leach into the soil which is not great and I would certainly not use it on any area I wanted to plant vegetables, fruits or herbs to eat. It or weed suppressant membranes are however useful if you have an area that is riddled with difficult perennial weeds. We did use this successfully for an area of the garden that had a difficult invasive perennial weed. If using it for that purpose it is best to cover the area with weed suppressing membrane, plastic sheeting or an old carpet first, then cover that with a decorative mulch of pebbles or bark. 

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How to Apply Mulch To The Garden

Choose the type of mulch that suits your garden and how you would like it to look. Different area of your garden may need a different approach to mulch type. Some beds may be better with organic mulch where the soil needs improving or you want a natural look while other areas look better with pebbles for example. 

Preparation Of The Garden Is Key

It is best to pull out any annual and perennial weeds from the beds we are mulching. It is easy and tempting to think you can skip this rather boring and tedious step but it is so much better to start with a weed free and clean area before mulching. Otherwise you may well find especially perennial weeds do still come up through the mulch. 

Applying the Mulch

It is important to spread a thick layer of mulch about two to four inches deep on the borders and beds around your plants. I always do this by hand especially in an existing border so as not to damage any of the plants there. Do take care to leave a gap at the base of each plant free from any mulch to prevent any rotting and to allow rainwater to reach the plant roots. It is always better to spread a thick layer over a smaller area than a thin layer over a larger space. 

It is best to mulch after a period of rainfall so you then keep the moisture in the soil. If no rainfall is forecast and you want to mulch, it is advisable to soak the soil beforehand with a watering can or hose. I would advise to always wear a good strong pair of garden gloves when spreading mulch to protect you and so there is no contact with your skin. 

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Maintain the Mulch

There isn't really a lot of ongoing or regular maintenance, but we can add more organic mulch like bark or compost over time as it breaks down into the soil. Organic mulch requires a little more topping up and raking from time to time.

We tend to put it down once a year in spring, but ideally do it twice a year in Spring and again in Autumn/Fall especially if your soil is poor or impoverished. Spring mulching is great for weed suppression, locking moisture in the soil and improving soil structure. Autumn/Fall mulching can also be protective of plants when the frosts and cold weather comes.

For inorganic mulch, like gravel, stones or pebbles just add or rearrange if it needs readjusting or topping up. If you have laid inorganic mulch directly onto soil you may need to occasionally wash down with water and pick out any annual weeds that find their way into any gaps. If you do not want this task it is best to lay a layer of weed suppressing membrane underneath to minimise this further.  

So mulching is a very beneficial task to do every Spring and Autumn/Fall in our gardens. I find it an easy, rewarding task that beautifies the garden and has ample benefits for many months.

Read More Gardening Reviews on ReviewThisGardening.com

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Reviewing The Benefits of Garden Mulch by Raintree Annie

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Reviewing Sensory Garden For A Person With Sight Loss Part One

 

My husband has been gradually losing his sight and this is something we both need to learn and adjust to.

One of the areas I have been looking into recently is how to have a garden that will be beautiful, fun and interesting to him as his sight declines. We are also anticipating a house move in the next few years  to make life easier long term so I am looking into what will work and how I need to change my gardening style. 

There are always five elements to take in to account when making a garden and these revolve around the five senses of

Smell, Hearing, Sight, Touch and Taste and then the next important area is safety.

It is vital that we work together on this project so that I understand what he wants and needs from the garden. Our aim is to retain his independence as much as possible in all areas of life and that includes the garden.

We aim to arrange it so that he will know where he is in the garden by the location of key plants and structures and take notice of the five senses.  

In Part One we will discuss the senses of Smell, Touch and Sound and in Part Two we will discuss Sight, Taste and Safety. 

I have presented these elements in the order my husband would like me to concentrate. I find the best approach to be led by him in what he needs and wants in the garden. 

In this article we will be using the terms sight impaired, blind, low vision, partially sighted and sight loss as these are the current acceptable terms in my country for people with sight loss. This may change over time and be different in different countries. No offence is intended by any of these terms.

Elements To Address in The Garden

Smell : Scent: Scented Plants

Touch : Different textures and feel. Safe to Touch Plants

Hearing : Sound: Windchimes Water Features and Birds

Sight : Colour and form, Light

Taste : Fruit, veg and herbs Edible Plants. Avoid poisonous plants. 

Safety : Moving around independently and safely

Sense Of Smell-Scent

Scented Sweet Peas

Scented plants are very important in any garden but particularly when thinking of a person with sight loss. I am aware of many scented plants. The next step was to ask which scented plants he preferred, so I made sure I included those. 

I will not be limited to these plants though as I always think it is good to have surprises. Some plants are all year round scent from leaves, others only have scent for a part of the year they are in flower. 

We discussed having these plants mainly in raised beds so that it is easier to smell them and easier to maintain, plus better to be able to give them the conditions they like. In addition, the plants that have Mediterranean origins like free drainage, difficult to provide on our mainly heavy clay soil.

So we will plant:-

Lavender

Lemongrass

Basil

Thyme

Rosemary

Jasmine

Salvia

Scented Sweet peas

Artemisia

Curry plant

Scented roses

Thyme

Honeysuckle

Chamomile

Scented Daffodils

Cushion Bush/Silver sand 

Rosemary

Sense Of Touch

Although I love plants like Holly and pyracantha, they are both very prickly and  it is not a great idea to have them central in a garden suitable designed for a sight impaired, partially sighted or blind person. 

A better idea is to have plants that can be touched safely and that do not mind being touched. 

Some of these plants can be the same as the ones with lovely distinctive scents, many have leaves that are evergreen and release amazing scent when touched. Also they are not harmed by being touched.

So we will plant:-

Choisya Shrub

Curry plant

Artemisia

Lavender

Rosemary 

Chamomile

Lambs ears

White Scented Roses

A reality check are our love of roses. Now roses usually have thorns which is not a great idea. However we both adore roses and do not want to give them up so we worked on what we hope is a solution by planting roses in raised beds and surrounding them with lavender and chamomile. 

That way my husband will know if he smells or feels lavender or chamomile he has a safe space before he gets to roses. However once in flower the roses will have a gorgeous scent he can enjoy safely.

Sense Of Hearing -Sound

Plants

In the garden sound can be achieved by  plants making the sound such a bamboo or grasses. The distinctive rustling in the wind or a gentle breeze is a lovely sound for anyone and makes it a restful place for a bench to sit and listen. 

Wind Chimes

Materials are also useful in making a sound such as wind chimes.  They can be a useful item in the garden to provide a different element and even announce a separate area.

Bamboo

Water In The Garden

Water is an important element but while we both want a pond for wildlife it can be a real danger for someone who is sight impaired.

 So our solution is to have elements near the pond that will alert him to the water such as a physical barrier of a fence around the pond, a windchime near it and for added safety we will add a grid over the pond in case he does walk onto it.

We may have a small running water feature pump, not so much so that it disturbs wildlife but enough for it to be heard.

We will change the ground near the pond to something very different so if there is grass mainly near the pond we will put slabs down. 

Bird Bath

We will also continue to have a bird bath. Even if he eventually cannot see the birds very well, he can hear them having a bath as they splash around. We love our garden birds so we intend to have maybe three bird baths in different areas.

A Bird In The Bath
by RaintreeDesigns

 

So with a little thought and discussion and some plant knowledge it is I believe very possible to make a beautiful sensory garden with Touch, Sound and Scent for a person with sight loss and being an interesting garden for everyone. 

See Part Two in a few weeks, which will cover Sight, Taste and Safety. 

Read More Gardening Articles

Essential Wildlife Gardening Gifts

Diary Of A Wild Country Garden

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Reviewing the Beautiful and Cheerful Daffodil.

Daffodils are abundant in my garden right now and I love to see their beautiful vibrant colours  and gently swaying trumpet shaped heads bringing sunshine to a cold day.

Daffodils are native in Europe and North Africa and although the name Daffodil is most commonly used, the botanical  name is Narcissus and they are part of the Amaryllidaceae family. 

Regarding the name there is also a link with the Greek myth of Narcissus. The story goes that he was renowned to be very beautiful  and he fell in love with his own reflection, so much so that he pined away until he died and turned into the flower narcissi or daffodil. 

 

Daffodils In The Garden 

Even though it has been very cold here ever since they flowered, their appearance symbolising  rebirth and new beginnings gives me hope and joy. Although it has not been a particularly harsh winter this year, it has been very cold, damp, grey and very rainy so it is lovely to see some colour and brightness in the garden which certainly lifts the spirits for warmer weather and Spring. 

Most of mine are golden yellow colours but some are white and some are fragrant which is lovely. There are also orange flowers and combinations of yellow and white or orange and yellow. 

 Daffodils are very versatile in planting schemes for the garden. I like to plant little Tete a Tete daffodil in pots and troughs where their delicate looking blooms can be easily seen. The bigger daffodils are planted in the borders of the garden. Daffodils can also be naturalised in grass. 

 As we have a lot of daffodils, some can be spared to be used as cut flowers and brought inside to place in a vase. This is lovely to bring Spring into the house. They look lovely in a vase by themselves or mix very well with other flowers perhaps white, purple or blues being my preferences. 

 Daffodils come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes from the tiny to the large and different colours from yellow gold, white and orange.  Many have the classic strong trumpet shaped flower head and others have multi petaled varieties.

 

Bee On Daffodil
by RaintreeDesigns

Looking After And Planting Daffodils 

Daffodils are bulbs and hardy perennials. This is lovely as they come back every year once planted. 

While planting bulbs in borders can be a little tedious, once it is done you will have daffodils every year with little effort involved.

Planting Daffodils

We can plant daffodil bulbs in the autumn/fall around September to November time. This gives them time to establish roots before winter cold sets in. Before planting check to make sure that the bulbs are  clean and firm, discard any that are mouldy or very soft as these may be too old or diseased. It is best to buy and plant bulbs in the same season so that they do not get hence to get any mould or go soft. 

Daffodils prefer full sun or partial shade and they do appreciate a well-drained soil so it is ideal to plant in an area that will get a decent amount of sunshine. We have an area of heavy shade and I never plant daffodils there as they will not do well. Other flowers fair better there. All my daffodils planted in the soil are in sunny spots and I move the ones in pots into sunny places as soon as I see shoots coming up.

I put a grit and compost mix in my containers for the bulbs. For planting in the garden we do have heavy clay soil which although I have improved over years is still less than ideal but the bigger ones have managed to thrive in it. So if you have a sunny spot but perhaps less than ideal soil give it a try with a small number of the bigger bulbs to see if they can be successful.  

Bulbs should be planted  approximately 6 inches or 15 centimetres deep below the soil surface. For this you can simple dig a hole with a trowel or use a bulb planter. Having done a lot of this I would advise if you are planting a lot, to invest in a bulb planter to make the job easier and quicker.  

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